It was a pleasure to be able to watch the surfers out on the waves this beautiful afternoon in Streaky Bay. I took a zillion photos of them, and I wanted to share. There is a grace and freedom and strength in this sport, and a certain zen-like calm amidst the rushing adrenaline that has spawned a cult and culture. I’m not sure why surfers are so laid back and relaxed even though they have to be incredibly disciplined and hard working. Perhaps the serenity of the ocean along with doing what one is truly passionate about breeds that particular spirit that could not be described in any other way than “surfer”.
Enjoy.
Love the picks. I always admired surfers, for their strength and focus.